In the 17th century, English asparagus was a curious sight, regarded as an 'unimproved oddity' amidst the culinary landscape. Yet, in my eyes, it's a delicacy fit for any mealtime, morning, noon, or night. As the season unfolds, you might catch me in one of two pursuits. Either I'll be in the garden, eagerly awaiting the first glimpse of swifts soaring overhead, or I'll be making yet another trip to the greengrocer, hopeful for a taste of English asparagus.

Traditionally, the asparagus season heralds its arrival on St. George's Day, April 23rd. However, with recent milder winters, it's not uncommon for its appearance to surprise us as early as February. Yet, here I am, still waiting patiently. Just yesterday, the bundle I hesitated to purchase bore the label 'Peru.' While I can't definitively claim English asparagus as the finest, its unparalleled flavor speaks volumes of its storied past.

Catherine Brown, in 'The Taste of Britain,' unveils a fascinating history. Until the early 17th century, English asparagus languished as a neglected curiosity, even as it graced dining tables. Giacomo Castelveltro, in 1614, marveled at the sorry state of this noble plant in London's markets, pondering why it hadn't been cultivated to perfection. However, winds of change were blowing.

London soon became surrounded by asparagus fields, particularly flourishing in Mortlake and Deptford. Samuel Pepys himself procured 'a hundred of sparrow grass' from a garden in Fenchurch Street in 1667, setting the trend for the nation. The Vale of Evesham in Worcestershire emerged as an asparagus hub, though Lincolnshire now rivals it in production, if not in flavor. Orchards, with their interstitial spaces between trees, often hosted these prized spears.

While I've never attended the asparagus festival at the Fleece Inn in Bretforten, tales of its charm abound. Alas, my aversion to horse brasses—a quirk from childhood—has kept me at bay. Yet, I've heard whispers of the last bastion of tradition: bundles of asparagus, meticulously bound with osier twigs, a nod to centuries past when craftsmanship met culinary delight.

Early asparagus holds a delicate allure, a flavor so sublime that indulging in it nightly feels like an ever-renewing delight. In those initial weeks of the season, simplicity reigns supreme. A light touch suffices, perhaps a gentle peeling of the stalks. A sprinkle of seasoning, a drizzle of melted butter, or, for the more indulgent, a dollop of hollandaise suffices to elevate its natural essence.

Yet, as the season progresses and the spears grow slightly woodier, culinary experimentation beckons. The thicker ends find purpose in hearty soups, while the tender tips lend themselves gracefully to omelettes or scrambled eggs. Colin Spencer's timeless 'Vegetable Pleasures' offers sage advice, presenting a recipe for asparagus soufflé ingeniously utilizing both fibrous stems and delicate tips, each contributing to its ethereal texture.

Asparagus finds harmony in various culinary companions. It complements the delicate sweetness of crab in a risotto, accentuated by the addition of broad beans for a nuanced side dish. However, venturing beyond the obvious, Jessica Seaton and Anna Colquhoun's 'Gather Cook Feast' unveil a tantalizing recipe for duck with spring vegetables. Here, asparagus joins forces with purple-sprouting broccoli, radishes, spinach, and once more, the dependable broad beans, in a comforting one-pot symphony.

Yet, amidst a plethora of culinary possibilities, Jeremy Lee's asparagus masterpiece reigns supreme. A thin pastry known as feuille de brick, delicately brushed with butter, envelops blanched asparagus spears adorned with parmesan and seasoning. Baked to golden perfection, this unconventional creation captivates even the staunchest asparagus skeptic, proving itself a versatile companion to any occasion, whether as an appetizer or paired with libations. Its ability to elevate even the most lackluster of spears to culinary excellence is a testament to its enduring charm.

In conclusion, asparagus transcends its humble origins to emerge as a culinary gem, celebrated for its subtle flavor and versatile nature. Whether enjoyed in its tender infancy or embraced as it matures, asparagus invites culinary exploration, offering endless possibilities for creativity in the kitchen. From classic pairings to innovative recipes, each dish showcases the timeless appeal of this seasonal delight. As we savor each succulent bite, let us toast to the enduring allure of asparagus, a testament to nature's bounty and the artistry of gastronomy.